Tokyo Geek

Weekend in Hakone ​

Enjoy a long weekend in Hakone (箱根) with hiking, art museums, hot springs, and views of Mount Fuji.

  • 🚅 1.5 hours from Shinjuku by Odakyu Romancecar express train.
  • 🌾 Experience rural Japan but prepare for steep hills and limited services.

TL;DR ​

  • 🎫 Get the Hakone Freepass - paper version is best!
  • 🍜 Get dinner at your ryokan or book ahead; dinner options are limited.
  • ☕ Breakfast is hard to find so plan ahead
  • 🥾 Lots of walking so wear good shoes
  • 💴 Bring cash

Table of contents ​

Great things about Hakone ​

  • 🌳 Scenic mountains, lakes, and many hot springs (onsen) and traditional ryokan inns.
  • 🚅 Easy access from Tokyo via Odakyu Romancecar.
  • 🖼️ Various attractions: including art museums, hiking trails, and boat cruises.

Plan ahead ​

  • Limited hours for attractions, restaurants, and shops - mostly 10:00 to 17:00.
  • Hilly terrain and limited public transportation options make getting around challenging.
  • Limited food options: breakfast and dinner can be hard to find, and lunch options are crowded.
  • Can be very crowded on weekends and holidays.
  • Long waits and lines at popular attractions, restaurants, and transport during peak times.

Tips for visiting Hakone ​

  • Start early - attractions and transport get crowded and many close before sunset.
  • Plan meals ahead and book where possible.
  • Head to COFFEE CAMP before 08:30 for breakfast to avoid long waits.
  • Get the paper Hakone Freepass (see below); cellular reception in Hakone is spotty.
  • Check hours and availability on official sites or by phone; Google Maps is not always accurate.
  • Dress in layers - mountain weather is cooler and changes quickly.
  • Check local weather hourly at Hakone tenki.jp.

Cool places to visit in Hakone ​

My favorite places to visit in Hakone in order of preference:

Other popular locations:

Hotels ​

Irori Guesthouse Tenmaku ​

Yumoto station Hotel Mirahakone ​

K's House Hakone ​

  • Google Maps: K's House Hakone
  • Great budget hostel; private rooms (with doors) are recommended. Outdoor onsen bath is a plus.
  • Transport: 20-minute walk or 5-minute taxi from Hakone-Yumoto station. The walk is mostly uphill; take a taxi with heavy luggage.
  • Few nearby food options; eat before arriving or take a taxi to restaurants.

Yutorelo-an Annex ​

  • Google Maps: Yutorelo-an ANNEX
  • Reasonably priced basic ryokan with onsen baths in the Gora area.
  • Transport:
  • Nearby:
  • Notes:
    • The path to Gora station is very steep; take a taxi with heavy luggage.
    • The Gora area is very hilly and quiet after about 17:00. Many cafes and restaurants open at 10:00 or 11:00 and close by 17:00 or 18:00.
  • Recommendation:
    • Include dinner at the ryokan to avoid going out at night.
    • Get breakfast at COFFEE CAMP before 08:30 to avoid waits.
    • Daily Yamazaki offers onigiri and sandwiches but closes by 22:00.

Transportation ​

Getting to Hakone from Tokyo ​

Shinjuku ↔ Hakone-Yumoto via Odakyu Romancecar (Limited Express)

Tokyo ↔ Odawara via Shinkansen ↔ Hakone-Yumoto via Hakone Tozan Railway

  • Board at Tokyo station → Tokaido Shinkansen (Hikari or Kodama).
  • Time: about 58 minutes (to Odawara)
  • Fare: approximately ¥4,500 (one way, adult)
  • Transfer at Odawara station → Hakone-Tozan Line to Hakone-Yumoto. Local fare is minor.
  • Purchase JR tickets at Tokyo station ticket machines or counters; buy Tozan Line fare at Odawara.

Hakone Freepass - discounts and passes ​

Paper version of the Hakone Freepass ​

⚡ Get the paper Hakone Freepass at Shinjuku or Odawara station.

⚠️ If you use the e-ticket version, you need cellular data to show it when boarding. Because Hakone is mountainous, reception is often unreliable. Get the paper version to avoid issues.

Itinerary ideas ​

Here is an example 3-day Hakone itinerary.

Day 1: Tokyo to Hakone ​

Day 2: Hakone sightseeing ​

Day 3: Hakone to Tokyo ​

Klooks and Asoview ​

  • Klook offers various services and experiences in Japan but please note that all bookings done in foreign currencies (non-JPY) are noticeably more expensive. Their JPY prices are more reasonable.
  • Asoview.com offers various services and experiences in Japan with many bundled deals and discounts. However, their website is only in Japanese.

Tip: Create an account on Klook and Asoview.com ahead of time to speed up the booking process.